the antique victorian emerald and diamond navette ring

This stunning late Victorian navette ring holds an impressive emerald, surrounded by 18 sparkling rose-cut diamonds. The diamonds have breathtaking sparkle, and the emerald a fabulous, vivid colour, specked with interesting inclusions, making this a mesmerising antique stone. The deep green emerald draws the eye, enchantingly unique and with a fantastic elongated octagonal step cut, a fairly rare cut in the Victorian era, when round mixed cuts were more common. The angular, crisp cut of the stone gives this ring a more contemporary feel for a piece over 125 years old.
The sparkling rose-cut diamonds complement the emerald to perfection, grain- and claw-set and dancing in the light. There are 18 of them in total, making up a navette. The term navette comes from the French word for “little boat,” referencing the long, pointed oval shape that defines the design, typically featuring an elongated setting that tapers to points at either end, the body studded with sparkling stones. This style was popularised in the 18th century, the trend starting in France. The story goes that a boat- or marquise-shaped diamond was commissioned by King Louis XV. He wanted the stone to resemble the smile of his chief mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether this account is documented fact or romantic embellishment remains debated.
The open-claw gallery allows plenty of light to showcase the sparkling stones. Engraved split shoulders frame the navette setting wonderfully, leading into a slim, plain yellow-gold band. The back of the band bears two stamps, one worn away with time, the other reading '56', a Russian assay mark for 14ct gold, which this ring also tests and is assessed as. The gold has a beautiful, rich tone and is a carat that makes it hardy and durable when worn.

Antiques.co.uk Ref: UEFPFPV7D

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